Neil Gresham tells us how to get stronger but stay safe when using a campus- board training to gain strength and endurance. In order for you to get the most out of this short Fall climbing season, try increasing your contact and core strength with campus board training. Learning how to. When it comes to training one of the most intimidating tools we can think of is the campus board. We know that this big, imposing board covered.

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October 25, at Now before you move on, let me explain what the numbers mean.

Would you recommend continuing the ladder sets of 4 or doing more with feet on or something else? Do you want to be able to climb longer boulders? Up, down, traverse, up, down, traverse, up, down…you get the idea.

Campus Board Training: The Complete Beginner’s Guide

The main exercise is basic laddering, but you can spice things up with variations such as up and downs, where you go up one rung, return to the start ,and then go up one rung higher each time until you top out. Juniors under 17 years trsining age should not do foot-off campusing. July 1, at This is completely the opposite of what you want.

Contact strength describes the ability to activate your muscles powerfully in a short period of time. Ladder traverses Advanced Essentially, ladders on steroids. Sustained, great for endurance, and incredibly tolling. Your fingers hit campuaboard crimp precisely; however, you are unable to close your hand enough to make the subsequent move.


The advantages campusboafd using a campus board for endurance is that the training is formulaic and easy to measure, and you can switch your brain off and go for the burn. You now have the tools to build your own campus board sessions.

Consequently, I close-crimped every rung until someone politely tapped me on the shoulder and explained that I was destroying my tendons. I have been climbing for at least 18 months. A crazy variation on standard doubles, which tests coordination to the limit. This grip develops strength for pockets campusboarf climbing openhanded on edges, but go carefully, as the injury risk may be slightly higher than with the half-crimp or chisel.

Campus Board Training: The Complete Beginner’s Guide | 99Boulders

I really want to work on contact strength and power but am not able to do more than 4 ladders in a row I can do many sets of four though. Make sure you are hanging for a second first and not jumping off the ground!

See how high you can go. Many people will jump up 2 rungs and then drop down 1 repeatedly on their way up.

Campus board

For a power endurance workout, start matched on a rung, explode off one arm and tap the highest rung you can reach, then come back down to the rung you started on and go immediately with the other side. Raised in the mountains of Ireland, Danaan is a man on a mission to combine his two favourite things — adventure and bouldering. Thanks for all the tips Galina! In order to minimize susceptibility to injury and increase the productivity of your training, employ the following:.


How To Train On The Campus Board – Crux Crush

There are two basic steps: Strangely enough, you can actually use a campus board for endurance. Purchase campus rungs here. A type of movement is much more powerful as you must generate most of the second movement from only one arm. Match on this to finish or go to the top if you are advanced. He’s now off on worldwide wander and you can follow his adventures on his Instagram.

Training to increase absolute power is often focused on generating larger movements that you can only produce when fully rested. Emphasize quality, rest between sets 2.

Reactive training may be used to increase muscle recruitment by dynamically moving between the campus board rails simultaneously with both hands. To start, try this: I have not recently had reoccurring pain in my fingers, elbows, or shoulders. Neil Gresham, an all-arounder, has coached climbing for over 20 years. If your form goes, not only will you no longer be getting the strength gains but you will also dramatically increase your chances of injury.

For development of power, try spending the minimum possible amount of time on the bottom rung. Still not enough flexibility?

A campus board session geared towards this is really straightforward.